 I read somewhere that children laugh more than 400 times a day, while adults manage only a measly 15 to 20 daily chuckles. Growing up is an awful shame, but on a recent trip to Coffs Coast of New South Wales, my husband and I claimed back some of those 380 lost laughs and had the pleasure of watching our toddler, Fergus, try out for a new children’s record.
The three of us giggled and shrieked our way through a show at the Pet Porpoise Pool in Coffs Harbour, laughing at the balancing, singing, ball-playing, tumble-turning antics of a team of well-trained dolphins, fur seals and sea lions. We really squealed when a sea lion worked her way up into the stands to give each of us a sloppy, fishy kiss. Only our two-month-old baby, Hugh, escaped.
The Pet Porpoise Pool is an institution in Coffs Harbour, which is a popular destination for family holidays. My first impression was that the park looked a bit tired – it’s actually slated for a major revamp – but its manageable size means you get a much more personal and hands-on experience than you would at a larger marine park.
In the space of a couple of hours, we patted dolphins, cuddled a large sea lion, hand fed a giant, whiskered seal and fed cute fairy penguins. We spent quite some time at the side of the pool “chatting” to dolphins, and Fergus was ecstatic when one caught a ball he threw and tossed it back. He was, however, emphatic that the dolphins were actually sharks and wouldn’t be told otherwise!
All the animals at the park were either rescued or born there, and are considered unsuitable for repatriation to the wild. I’m always a bit wary of tourist-oriented animal parks, but the residents of the Pet Porpoise Pool (named before anyone realised there was a difference between porpoises and dolphins) really do seem to love their work. We had so much fun I’d have gone again had we had the time.
We had another up-close and memorable animal experience at the Coffs Harbour Butterfly House, which houses hundreds of butterflies in a lush indoor rainforest. Fergus was delighted just to watch the spectacularly coloured creatures flitting around, while older children were busy looking for caterpillars and learning about metamorphosis from the resident butterfly specialist. Only the adults had the sense to stand still and let the butterflies land on them.
Next it was time to look for creatures in the wild, with a whale-watching cruise and a kayaking trip. We only saw a few whales – a lot less than usual, from all accounts – but it was lovely to be out on the water and we got a real buzz each time a tail appeared.
The two children next to us were seasick but all the rest, including ours, seemed to be fine. The kayaking trip was the perfect way to see some of Bongil Bongil National Park and learn a bit about the area and its creatures. Our guide, Bob, was quick to spot white-bellied sea eagles and other birds, and had a special interest in the Aboriginal history of the park. It was lost on Fergus, who spent most of the time shouting “Duck!” at the pelicans, but we appreciated it.
The minimum age for kayaking is generally four years. Depending on the age of your children, Liquid Assets Adventure Tours also offers sea kayaking, surf rafting, white-water rafting and surfing lessons, all in spectacular surrounds. The prices are very reasonable, at about $40 per person for a half-day adventure.
Other highlights of our trip to Coffs Coast were chocolate-coated frozen bananas at the famous (or infamous) Big Banana, a visit to the World Heritage-listed Dorrigo National Park and numerous stops at beaches to play in the sand or splash in the water.
 The Coffs Coast has a wealth of places to stay, including countless holiday villages and caravan parks that offer good value family accommodation. There are also plenty of hotels, resorts and self-contained apartments, many with two- and three-bedroom options.
We stayed at the Novotel Pacific Bay Resort, which instantly won favour with me for having a takeaway food service. Tired on the first night after an early start from Sydney and a full day of activities, we ordered some food and crashed on the sofa, looking out over a lagoon. If childfree time is on your agenda, the Novotel has a year-round kids’ club ($9.50 per three-hour session), so you can make the most of the resort’s pools, tennis courts, golf course and spa centre.
We also spent a night at the Park Beach Holiday Park, which Fergus loved for its fantastic pool with waterslides, squirting seahorses and a pirate ship. There were tears when we left. Another good option is the Darlington Beach Resort, which has accommodation ranging from camping to cabins and a huge range of kids’ activities, including archery, tennis, volleyball, table tennis, bowls, a BMX track, a “jumping pillow” and a pool with waterslides. The resort has an excellent kids’ program during school holidays, and most of the activities are free.
Most of the cafés and restaurants along Coffs Coast cater well for children. We had a truly sensational meal at The Watermark restaurant in Coffs Harbour, which not only quickly produced a high chair and some crayons, but also had one of the best kids’ menus I’ve seen – not a processed chicken nugget in sight! The food was superb and we felt our children were genuinely welcome.
If you want to experience everything that Coffs Coast has to offer, you really do need a car, as the attractions and sights are spread along the coastline and into the hinterland. Thankfully, the distances are not great and it is never far to a place where the kids can let off steam. The area has plenty of beautiful beaches, parks and picnic spots, and there are lots of appealing towns to stop and grab lunch or an ice cream.
Sawtell, just south of Coffs Harbour, is delightful, with its fig-tree-lined main street and sweet little shops.
There are plenty of good cafés to choose from and, if you are unlucky enough to strike bad weather, you can while away a couple of hours at the restored 1950s cinema.
North of Coffs Harbour is Woolgoolga, which has a pretty, patrolled beach and a good playground, and Emerald Beach, where the sand seems to go forever. The intriguingly named Look At Me Now Headland at Emerald Beach is known for its kangaroos at dawn, but we certainly weren’t there that early. If you are heading to Dorrigo National Park then stop in Bellingen, a very arty, alternative sort of town with a lovely mountain feel. The main street would make a good movie set, with its old-fashioned shop fronts. Even if the kids won’t tolerate shopping, you must visit the Hammond & Wheatley Emporium, a beautifully restored heritage building with many original features, including engraved brass window frames. The town also has several cosy cafés or, if your kids are at the can’t-sit-still-in-cafés stage, some great bakeries and takeaway food places.
Bellingen is one of the main towns on the “Waterfall Way”, which takes you from the Pacific Highway to Dorrigo National Park and beyond. The town of Dorrigo looks like it belongs in outback Queensland, with its wide streets and its large old pub with wrought-iron finishes. You will pass through Dorrigo if you are heading to Dangar Falls, where the water cascades over several ledges before plunging 40m into a rock pool. Within the national park is a “skywalk” walkway that takes you out over the rainforest canopy. The walkway provides great views of the park and a feel for how incredibly tall the trees are. If you are scared of heights, don’t look down!
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