Long before Dr Seuss and J.K. Rowling triggered the imagination of young readers, a young Scottish author named Robert Louis Stevenson was delighting both children and adults with his novels Treasure Island, Kidnapped and The Strange Case of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde. What has that got to do with Samoa, you may well ask? Quite a lot, in fact - because this island paradise was where Stevenson lived with his family for the five years prior to his death in 1894, at age 44. The island served as creative inspiration for his final books, and he loved the culture and people of Samoa so much that he called himself by the native name, Tusitala. You can take a one-hour guided tour of Stevenson's beautifully restored colonial home, a five-minute drive from downtown Apia, where many of his personal belongings are on display. Of special interest is the library where he penned 14 tomes in just four years. In the cool of the day the track to the writer's grave at the base of Mt Vaea is also well worth negotiating. As the crow flies, Samoa is 4,400km from Sydney. It consists of 10 islands, of which the two largest are Upolu and Savai'i. Apia, the capital, and the Faleolo International Airport are located on Upolu.
Resort life In Samoa life moves at a leisurely pace, putting you in mind of Fiji before the big resorts moved in. Aside from Aggie Grey's Lagoon, Beach Resort & Spa and the historic Aggie Grey's Hotel & Bungalows in Apia, deluxe resort hotels are in short supply but there is plenty of inspirational boutique and budget accommodation. Not only is Aggie Grey's Hotel an iconic symbol in the South Pacific, the late Aggie Grey (allegedly the inspiration for James A Mitchener's "Bloody Mary" in Tales of the South Pacific) entertained many famous customers at the hotel, including Hollywood legends Marlon Brando, Gary Cooper and William Holden, after which many of the garden bungalows are named. While the original hotel is best suited to adults, families are well-catered for at Aggie Grey's Lagoon, Beach Resort & Spa in Western Upolu, with the free Dolphin Kids' Club coordinating activities for children from 3-12 years. The beach resort, set amongst 20 hectares of tropical gardens and bordered by an 18-hole championship golf course, is strikingly located on a stretch of white sand beach with its own blue turquoise lagoon.
Escape to Savai'i From here it's just a 90-minute ferry ride from nearby Mulifanua Wharf to the island of Savai'i where life remains relatively unspoilt with breathtaking waterfalls, caves, blowholes and rainforests. Beyond its natural wonders, Savai'i's most dramatic geological feature is the Saleaula lava fields, where Mt Matavanu erupted 102 years ago. Children will love the opportunity to feed and swim with the gentle green turtles at the wetlands sanctuary at Satoalepai village. Once hunted for their flesh and eggs, this now endangered species is being raised by the people of the village and released back into the ocean. Living Samoan-style in an open-air fale can be challenging for those who prefer their stars to be of the 4- or 5-star variety but for the more adventurous, it's good fun and comparable to camping sans the walls. The family-run Tanu Beach Fales has 30 traditional fales, located a stone's throw from the lagoon's edge, where rough woven blinds pull down for privacy. What makes this so special is that all the staff members are related - brothers, sisters, cousins, uncles, aunties, nieces and nephews. Shared meals, dancing and attention-grabbing fire performances or fiafias add to this heart warming and authentic experience. In essence, Samoa is very family friendly, and visitors are welcomed with open arms. Most importantly it's safe, easy to drive around and you won't have to take out a second mortgage to pay for the holiday.
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