 France is the world's most visited tourist destination, and with reason: Paris is a great cultural and romantic capital, while the rest of France boasts dazzling scenery, oodles of history and activities that range from skiing in the Alps to sunning yourself on the Riviera. And while some would consider France to be a very grown-up destination, in fact there are so many activities, sports and sights that appeal to children that they may well exhaust themselves within a few days. Cut down on the must-see list and take your time: France is like a good meal, best savoured slowly, and a thoroughly enjoyable and enriching experience for the whole family.
Paris is, of course, the place where most visitors to France pass the majority of their time. Despite its long association with romance and canoodling couples there are a thousand and one things for the family to enjoy.
The biggest kids' drawcard is Disneyland Paris just outside the city, where you could count on spending a couple of days, but climbing the Eiffel Tower, wandering the parks and investigating some of the child-oriented museums will also keep your kids busy. Older kids interested in art, architecture and history will also appreciate the city's long association with painters, writers and monarchs. But it isn't all about high culture: even the streets of Paris can be a source of continual amusement to children. Street performers, open-air cafés, playgrounds, carousels, circuses, toy shops and great ice-cream stores that seem to be at every turn in Paris are bound to keep the little ones happy.
While many visitors never venture outside Paris, it's well worth trying to explore some of regional France, where the pace is slower, the quality of life and cuisine wonderful and the landscapes offer pure poetry. Nearest to Paris is the Loire Valley, best suited to families interested in French history and culture. Lying west of the city, this is one of France's most stunning regions, fringed by vineyards and dotted with sumptuous palaces and chateaux that were once the playground of French royalty and the nobility. The best of these are perhaps Chambord and Chennonceau, where your kids can clamber twisting staircases, gaze across turreted roofs and learn about the darker deeds of French historical intrigue.
The French Riviera is the glittering jewel on France's Mediterranean coast and the playground of the rich and famous, particularly around St Tropez and Cap d'Antibes. But there are plenty of resort towns such as St Raphaël for middle-class French families, and even some places such as Ste Maxime and Fréjus that offer budget accommodation. Nice is perhaps the most convenient place to stay, and offers a wide range of hotel options as well as a charming old town and delightful promenade. You'll also want to make the short trip to Monaco; kids will enjoy the changing of the guards outside the palace and the superb aquariums at the Musée Océanographique de Monaco. The Musée National de Monaco also has a very large collection of antique dolls. After you've admired the coast and other famous towns such as Cannes, you can always head inland to the rugged terrain around Grasse, famous for its perfume distilleries. Australians will otherwise be unimpressed by the beaches, which are often pebbly and overcrowded. Also note that topless bathing is also common and a sight you may well have to end up explaining to curious kids.
Between the Mediterranean coast and the Alps stretches the region known as Provence, long associated with rustic food, glorious weather, delightful villages such as St Rémy-de-Provence and Les Baux, and artists such as Cezanne and Van Gogh. Kids who know the French ditty will love to dance on the real Pont d'Avignon in Avignon, a stunning medieval city on the banks of the Rhone. The regional centre is Lyon, the second largest city in France and noted for its gastronomy.
The French Alps are just as beautiful as anywhere in Austria or Switzerland. In summer, active families can enjoy hiking among glorious vistas of snowcaps, lakes and glaciers. In winter, ski resorts such as Chamonix, Courchevel, Val d'Isère and Megève offer plenty of skiing and snowboarding. The 19 km Vallée Blanche ski run in Chamonix is one of the most famous in Europe and totally exhilarating, but all the resorts also offer runs for intermediate and beginner skiers. If you intended to explore only this region, you should consider flying into Geneva airport, just over the Swiss border, rather than into more distant Paris.
If your kids have had a wonderful time in France and want to return for a more in-depth experience, you might want to consider an exchange with a French family in Lyon, during which your kids will attend a French school. The visits last 5-7 weeks and include trips with other Aussie kids to cultural events, Paris and country regions, and are accompanied from Australia by a group leader. Most exchange students have just finished Years 10 or 11. For more information, go to www.antipodeans.com.au/french/french.html or phone 02 9413 1432.
Where is it and how do I get there?
France is one of the westernmost countries in Europe, sandwiched between Germany, Switzerland, Italy and Spain. Most visitors from Australia are likely to fly into Paris, which has two international airports, Orly and Charles de Gaulle. Qantas, Asian carriers such as Singapore Airlines, and European carriers such as British Airways will get you there. Air France no longer flies into Australia.
Paris is about 22 hours flying time from Australia, including a stopover in Bangkok, Singapore or another Asian destination.
When to go, Weather
France's weather can be quite varied from one part of the country to another, generally becoming hotter and drier as you move southwards. In the southwest, Brittany can be very wet, particularly in the winter, and is driest in May. Along the Mediterranean, most rain falls in spring and autumn; summers are very dry and hot. In the rest of France (including Paris) the weather is temperate, with warm summers and coldish winters when the temperature hovers around zero. Except in the Alps and Pyrenees, snow is relatively uncommon.
Airfares to and around Europe are generally cheaper in the northern winter, and hotel rooms can also be discounted. All of France goes on holiday during August, when accommodation and transport bookings are at a premium – except perhaps in Paris, since most French flee to the countryside. The best time to visit most regions, including Paris, is between April-June and September-October.
Where to stay
There is a four star system in French hotels. Even two-star lodgings can be decent tourist hotels, although occasionally you won't get a private bathroom. Mercure (www.mercure.com) is a widespread chain of reasonably-priced hotels, while the more basic Formule 1 (www.hotelformule1.com) or more atmospheric Logis de France (www.logis-de-france.fr) might be ones to look out for on a tight budget. Four-star establishments at the deluxe end of the market include the renowned Relais & Châteaux (www.relaischateaux.com), which are usually set up in former castles and mansions.
The properties of the Small Luxury Hotel brand in various parts of France are also wonderful, and some have special policies for children. These include Chateau d’Artigny, Chateau de l’Ile, Chateau de Gilly, Chateau de Divonne, Chateau d’Esclimont, Le Choiseul, Le Mas d’Artigny, Le Prieuré, Le Domaine de Beauvois and Chateau d’Isenbourg. Among the benefits include children sharing free in parents' rooms, kids' menus, baby chairs and cots, babysitting on request, presents such as colouring pens and teddy bears on check-in, bathrobes and swimmers for the little ones, and various other family entertainments. See the Small Luxury Hotel website at www.slh.com for more information and individual properties.
An alternative to hotel living in regional France are gîtes or chambres d'hôte which are usually B&B style establishments in farms, private homes and country mansions, many including one meal. Go to www.gites-de-france.fr for more information.
Accommodation for Families on a Budget:
(Prices range from €125-€170 per night)
Santa Fe Hotel (Disneyland Paris, Marne-le-Vallée; tel 01-60-45-79-22; www.disneylandparis.com) This desert-themed hotel is a Wild West lodging in the style of an adobe village set along a winding trail. Room rates include breakfast. Right next door, the Cheyenne is a very similar Disneyland hotel in the same price range, with bunk beds and a play area for children, but no pool. Babysitting is available at both properties.
Timhôtel Le Louvre (4 Rue Croix des Petits-Champ, 1st Arrondissement, Paris; tel 01-42-60-34-86; www.timhotel.fr). The location of this two-star hotel is hard to beat, since it is just a short walk from the Louvre, and is modern if a little characterless. For families it's also a great choice because it offers some rooms with four beds for the price of a normal double, and bathrooms have a tub as well as a shower.
Résidence Lord Byron (5 Rue de Chateaubriand, 8th Arrondissement, Paris; tel 01-43-59-89-98; www.escapade-paris.com) also has a handy location just a short walk from major Paris sights and the Champs-Elysées. Although it is in quite an upmarket neighbourhood, it's unpretentious and good value. The furnishings are old-fashioned, but the place is well run and has a sense of elegance without the price tag. Many families use it, and if you want a little extra space you can opt for one of the suites. The hotel also has a babysitting service.
Accommodation for families on a mid-range budget:
(Prices range from €170-€265 per night)
Hôtel de Fleurie (32-34 Rue Grégoire-de-Tours, 6th Arrondissement, Paris; tel 01-53-73-70-00; www.hotel-de-fleurie.tm.fr). Right in the heart of colourful and bohemian St Germain-des-Prés, this has long been a family favourite for a variety of reasons. It's best known for its family rooms, which are actually two connecting rooms with a pair of large beds in both rooms suitable for large family groups. If you want to share a room with your kids, children under 12yrs stay for free. Babysitting is offered. The hotel itself has an old-fashioned elegance reflected in the statues along its façade and the antique reproductions in the rooms.
Disneyland Hotel (Disneyland Paris, Marne-le-Vallée; tel 01-60-45-65-89; www.disneylandparis.com) is the most expensive of Disneyland's several hotels, and for good reason. The hotel takes on the look of a stately Victorian mansion with turreted roofs, offering an indoor pool, two restaurants and 24-hour service. The rooms are spacious and have marble bathrooms. Some even overlook Sleeping Beauty's Castle. Some of the rooms have armchairs that convert into beds for the little ones. Babysitting is available.
 Accommodation for families looking to indulge:
(Prices range from €205-€403 per night)
Le Meridien Montparnasse (19 Rue du Commandant Mouchotte, 6th Arrondissement, Paris; tel 01 44 36 44 36; www.lemeridien.com) Close to St Germain-des-Près and the Luxembourg Gardens, this Meridien offers all the facilities of an international first-class hotel. The spacious rooms have panoramic views over Paris, and there is a fitness centre. Childcare service can be arranged through the concierge. Check out Meridien Family Breaks, which offer interconnecting family rooms, buffet breakfast and a Penguin Club to look after the kids; you must stay a minimum of two nights and children must be 12yrs or under. Every Sunday from September to the end of June, the Justine restaurant offers a sumptuous Baby Brunch buffet for the whole family. From the moment they arrive, children are looked after by the "Jour de Fête" activity organisers. Children can play different games, based on a different theme each week, and enjoy face painting, singing, dancing and birthday celebrations with friends. During the week, the restaurant also has a children's menu.
St James Paris (42 Avenue Bugeaud, Paris; tel 01 44 05 81 81; www.slh.com/saintjames) is a lovely chateau with spacious bedrooms, a stunning library and gardens for dining outdoors during the summer, and is conveniently situated just a few steps from the Arc de Triomphe. In April the hotel offers special Easter packages that include accommodation, buffet breakfast, an egg hunt in the garden, and a little train trip and tickets to the various attractions at the Jardin d'Acclimatation, which is great for kids (see our Things to See & Do section). From October to December they also offer a Family Package that includes a surprise for the kids, buffet breakfast, boat trip on the Seine, and a free additional bed.
Other properties in the Small Luxury Hotel brand offer a similar Family Package in December at the Pavillon de la Reine (28 Place des Vosges, Paris; tel 01 40 29 19 19; www.slh.com/pavillon), built in 1605 by a French king and situated in the lovely Place de Vosges, with romantic ambience and four-poster beds, and from January to mid-March at Relais Christine (3 Rue Christine, Paris; tel 01 40 51 60 80; www.slh.com/christine), located in a former thirteenth-century abbey in the raffish Latin quarter. Kids will love the suits of armour in the breakfast room, while parents will enjoy the luxury and elegance associated with the Small Luxury Hotel brand.
Family accommodation on the Riviera
Meridien Garden Beach (15-17 Blvd Baudoin, Juan-les-Pins; tel 04 92 93 57 57; www.lemeridien.com). Right on the Riviera, this is a resort hotel with a private, sandy beach and pier. There is also a sea-view fitness centre (though access is reserved for those over 18yrs) with indoor swimming pool, sauna and steam bath. Every year in July, Le Meridien Garden Beach is the official sponsor of the International Jazz Festival and welcomes all the big names in jazz, such as B.B. King and George Benson. Cots and babysitting are available, and the hotel provides a swimming teacher on the beach and a children's menu. This hotel also offers Meridien Family Breaks (see their Paris hotel above for details).
Le Mas d'Artingny (Rue de la Colle, St Paul de Vence; tel 04 93 32 84 54; www.slh.com/masartigny) is a resort style hotel in the hills behind Antibes on 20 acres with private swimming pools, table tennis, air hockey, table football, giant chess, tennis and bowls to keep the kids occupied. On Sunday afternoons in summer there is also archery, remote controlled boats, remote controlled airship, games in the woods and trout fishing, and an entertainer to take further care of the kids while parents enjoy the Sunday buffet lunch. Kids' activities are also organized on various other occasions such as Mother's Day, Easter and Christmas.
Food and Drink
It goes without saying the Paris and the rest of France is full of fine restaurants, but not all of them welcome boisterous kids. French kids tend to learn early that eating is an almost religious experience in France, and they usually sit quietly at the table and seldom baulk at fine fare such as foie gras, blue cheese or even sips of wine.
That said, there are restaurants that have kids' menus, usually posted in the window, and many eateries can be convivial places that are frequented by neighbourhood families. At lunch time, bistros or cafes are a good bet, since they usually provide snack-type foods that will appeal to the kids, such as cheese melts (croques monsieur), crusty sandwiches, slices of quiche and pastries. Cafés also routinely serve hot chocolates. Creperies are also common, where you can try a variety of flavours and fillings in very thin, French-style pancakes. Don't overlook dining in your hotel, since many of these have kids' menus or at least a couple of dishes that might appeal, such as spaghetti or chicken.
Make sure you order any meat, including hamburgers, bien cuit (well done), unless your kids are used to eating meat rare, which is the way it usually comes in France.
With a bakery and delicatessen on nearly every street corner, France is also well set up for picnicers. Pizza Huts and McDonalds are also everywhere in Paris, if all else fails to impress your offspring.
Shopping
You'll never be short of things to buy in France, which has everything from antiques and crafts to cutting-edge fashion. In the north, look for earthenware or faïence as well as copper kitchenware and pots. Northeast France is the home of Baccarat crystal, Limoges to quality porcelain. If you aren't going to be outside Paris, then Rue de Paradis in the city has suppliers with goods from big French factories, including Limoges and Baccarat. Sleek, elegant kitchenware is also a good buy in France; if you are in Paris, head to the Rue Montmartre in the 2eme arrondissement.
For mid-priced fashions that are often knock-off of more expensive brands, browse the Prisunic and Monoprix department stores all over France. In Paris, the Printemps and galleries Lafayette are renowned department stores. The former has a vast selection of children's books which, while mostly in French, are refreshingly diffferent from those you can find in Australia.
There are numerous fine toy stores in Paris, including the luxurious Au Nain Bleu (408 Rue Saint-Honoré), a wide range of educational games and puzzles at Baby Reve (32 Avenue Rapp) and a huge supermarket-style toy store La Grande Recre in the Forum des Halles, Porte Berger. Also fascinating is the Jouets International du Monde (28 rue des Trois-Bornes), which has hand-crafted toys from all over the world – yes, even boomerangs from back home.
A recent innovation is the parapharmacie, which is a cross between a chemist's, a health-care store and the beauty product department at Myers. They are large, and products are often heavily discounted (détaxe, similar to duty free) if you spend more than €175. Paris, Nice, Cannes and Monaco have good discount stores for beauty products. The south of the country has always been known for its soap, with L'Occitane, a southern brand of beauty store, now becoming known around the world.
Local produce markets still thrive in the streets of every French town, as well as the Parisian suburbs, and are frequented with missionary zeal by the food-loving French. Don't miss out on this quintessentially French experience one weekend, and take time out to wander the fresh food stalls and watch locals snap up baguettes, hunks of cheese and tubs of olives.
Note that GST in France is a whopping 19.6%, which you can have refunded if you spend more than €175 (and present your passport) at any one participating retailer.
Airport
Paris has two international airports, one at Orly 14 km south of the city, and the other called Charles de Gaulle at Roissy 23 km northeast of the city. Both have extensive international airport facilities such as car rental, duty-free shopping, restaurants and nearby hotels. Free shuttles will take you between terminals. If you require assistance, most ground staff speak English. For more information, go to www.adp.fr for both airports.
Transfers from airport
From Charles de Gaulle, a free shuttle bus will take you to Roissy RER station, where trains run every 15 minutes into the city and connect with the metro system. A ticket is €8 to any central destination. Air France shuttle buses will also take you into the city for €12, dropping you at Porte Maillot, Place de l'Etoile or the two stations of Montparnasse and Lyon, from which you can also transfer to metro lines. A metered taxi will cost around €40, with a 40% surcharge at night.
From Orly, Air France buses leave every 12 minutes to Gare des Invalides in central Paris for €11, from which you can connect to the metro. There is also a RER line, initially on a monorail, but this is somewhat more complicated as it involves a transfer at Anthony before getting you to the city centre, but it would be useful if your accommodation is near the RER line B. Tickets are €9. A taxi costs about €35, with a 40% surcharge at night. Do not get in a meterless taxi; wait in the taxi queue.
 Getting around for families
The Paris underground or metro is fast, regular, cheap and will get you to just about anywhere you want to go in Paris. Interconnecting RER lines head further out into the suburbs as well as to Disneyland Paris. The metro is also safe, but keep an eye out for pickpockets.
The only problem you might have with younger kids is the correspondences or transfer stations, where there is occasionally a long walk from one platform to another, and rather inconvenient if you have a stroller. Within the city, tickets are just €1.40 and you can buy a booklet of ten tickets for €11. Further into the suburbs, tickets are priced on a distance basis. Children 4-10yrs go for half price, under 4yrs free.
If you're going to use public transport a lot, get a Paris-Visite ticket for 1, 2, 3 or 5 days, which is valid not only on the metro and RER but on buses and the funicular to Montmartre as well; or a Carte Orange which gives you a week's travel on the metro or transit bus only, within central Paris, for just €15. You need a passport photo for the latter and you can only buy it Monday through Wednesday.
You should also take a batobus (water taxi) or bateau mouche (sightseeing boat) along the Seine River for stunning views of the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame cathedral and the Louvre. The views are especially good at night under spotlight.
Flying within France is a virtual monopoly of Air France, including high prices, but you can get just about anywhere from Paris in less than a hour's flying time. Much better is the reasonably-priced train system, which is fast and efficient and links fifty cities and many more towns and villages all over the country. Go to www.thomascooktimetables.com for all the train timetables in France should you want to plan in advance. You can buy tickets from any travel agent in the country, or with you credit card from ticket machines. In many instances you will also need a seat reservation, for which there is an additional charge. Numerous plans and discounts are offered under various schemes, which are outlined at the French railway's website (www.sncf.fr) and include France Rail Pass, France Saverpass and Eurailpass. Some of these need to be purchased before arriving in France.
In Australia, Rail Plus (www.railplus.com.au; tel 03 9642 8644) can sell you French rail passes. Children between 4 and 11yrs travel for half the adult fare. The passes are valid for 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 or 9 days unlimited train travel in any one month period and also get you reductions on the cost of certain other transport, such as Bateaux Parisiens (Seine river cruises) and Sea France ferries to the UK. Refer to their website, since there is a quantity of fine print in the use of these passes.
Rental cars are expensive in France (and come with a 19.6% GST on top of the daily rate), especially if you want an automatic, but driving is often the best way to see the magnificent French countryisde and visit out-of-the-way villages and chateaux. This is particularly true in Burgundy, Brittany and parts of southwest France, where the rail system is sparse.
The French are keen cyclists and if you want to do your own Tour de France you'll find it a very rewarding experience. There are literally thousands of options for cycling holidays in France, and trains will carry bicycles for a small charge. Among the companies that offer cycling trips are www.eurobike.com, www.classicadventures.com and www.europeexpress.com.
One of the most delightful ways to experience rural France is by barge along France's vast network of canals and waterways. Barge holidays are available in Burgundy, Champagne, Provence and the Camargue, among other regions. Prices vary widely depending on the level of luxury; barges can be simple family affairs or delux boats outfitted in brass and mahogany with your own chef.
What to wear
The French dress more formally than Australians, and you won't see many people wearing shorts and thongs, particularly not in large cities. You'll want to bring smart casual clothes, especially if you intend to eat out or go to the theatre. You'll also need more clothes than you would in Australia, since at any time other than the summer a raincoat and sweater are a must.
About France
Population
The vast majority of French are exactly that, but about three percent of the population are ethnically different, including Bretons from Britanny in the northwest, Catalans and Basques from near the Spanish border, and Provençals from the south. Another three percent are immigrants from North Africa. Many of the older generation have now integrated into French life, but younger immigrants are having more trouble, feeling they are disadvantaged. Discussion is rife in France about the place of these mostly Muslim immigrants in French society.
Culture/Religion
Some eight percent of French are Muslim and one percent Jewish. The vast majority (86%) identify themsevles as Roman Catholic, although state and chruch are strictly seperated and church attendance has dwindled in recent decades.
French culture is all about eating well and looking good while you do it. The country is understandably famous for its fashion, sense of style and high gastronomy. The French are also very proud of their history, republicansim and high culture; an intellectual literary programme on television has been one of the highest-rating TV shows of the last decade. Less well known is the French obsession with sports, especially soccer, rugby and cycling. Traditional pétanques (a variation on lawn bowling) is also extremely popular and played in just about every town square across the country.
Language
Most French have studied English at school, and English is fairly widely understood, although many French are reluctant to use it. Hotel staff in major centres such as Paris, the Riviera and ski resorts are likely to speak good English. An attempt to speak French, no matter how clumsy, is always appreciated.
Time
France is eight hours behind Eastern Standard Time during daylight saving, which runs between April and September. Over the northern winter, France is nine hours behind EST. For time zone information, click here.
Currency
Since 2002 France has used the Euro, which is divided into 100 centimes. For up-to-date currency conversions, click here. The easiest way to access cash is to use ATMs, but make sure your bank card is linked to international ATMs before you leave. (Generally your card should bear the Cirrus or Plus logo.) There are often long lines at the ATMs in Paris' two airports, so you might want to bring a small amount of euros with you for arrival.
Tipping
The French are not big tippers, since service is including in restaurant bills (service compris). However, if they have received very good service they might leave some small change on the table. You should tip porters, cloakroom attendants and museum guides about a euro.
Electricity
You'll need an adaptor if you want to use Australian equipment in France. French plugs have two round pins and a receptacle for male grounding pin, and work on 220/230 volts.
Health precautions
France is generally a safe and healthy destination, with a high quality of food preparation and drinkable water. You don't require any vaccinations. Health care is outstanding, especially when it comes to children. The population of France is falling, and anyone who has kids is overwhelmed with quality health care and numerous subsidies. Most hospitals have highly-trained staff, many of whom will speak some English.
Tap water
It is safe to drink the water anywhere in France. Ask for l'eau du robinet in restaurants unless you want to pay for bottled water, which is either fizzy (avec gas) or flat (sans gas).
Passport and Visa Requirements
You do not need a visa for France if you are an Australian or New Zealand citizen and hold a passport that is valid for at least six months beyond the time of your visit.
HWK Family Travel Tips
The town hall in Paris (25 Boulevard Bourdon, 4th arrondissement) has information about sports and events for children; head to the Kiosk Paris-Jeunes, which is open from noon to 7pm Monday through Friday. The tourist office also publishes a useful booklet called Paris-Île-de-France avec des Yeux d'Enfants (Paris and surrounds through the eyes of a child) which, although in French, should give you ideas and contacts.
Remember that Saturdays and Wednesday afternoons (when kids are off school in France) are peak times for kids' entertainment and venues will be correspondingly crowded.
If you need a babysitter in Paris, well-established and reputable agencies include Kids’ Service (159 Rue du Rome; phone 01-47-66-00-52), Home Service (2 Rue Pierre-Semard; phone 01-42-82-05-04) and Babysitting Service (18 rue Tronchet; 01-46-37-51-24).
 Things to See & Do in France
Paris
It goes without saying that sights such as the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame cathedral and the banks of the Seine are the top drawcards of the city, along with the Impressionist paintings at the Musée d'Orsay (which offers children's activity sheets) and just about everything at the Louvre. That said, kids might well tire quickly of cultural and historic sights. The Louvre especially is somewhat overwhelming; with kids in tow, it's best to focus on the ancient Egypt displays, since everyone loves their mummy. Paris Muse (www.parismuse.com) offers 3-hour family tours of the museum that includes a treasure hunt and is designed to highlight art history in a way that will entertain children ages 6-12.
There are so many museums in Paris that you couldn't possibly see them all in a lifetime, but several are especially good for kids. The Musée National des Techniques (Rue Réaumur) isn’t so much a museum as a magnificent jumble of dilapidated, dusty, rusty, outmoded scientific junk that you could spend several hours happily rummaging through, always uncovering some fascinating surprise. Marvel at the first ever calculator designed by Blaise Pascal, ancient astrolabes, weights and measures through the ages, cars, aircraft, model trains, pumps and a great deal more that seems to defy description.
If all that’s too scientific, head for the superlative collection of eighteenth-century clocks, old barrel organs, clockwork dolls and various musical instruments. The Cité des Sciences et de l'Industrie (30 Avenue Corentin Cariou, La Vilette; www.cite-science.fr) is a science museum set in a sprawling park with twenty themed exhibitions that range from water to the universe, an IMAX, a real submarine and a giant dragon whose tongue acts as a huge slide. The Cité des Enfants is a science village for children 3-12. The Musée de l'Armé (Esplanade des Invalides) has ancient Greek weapons, medieval suits of armour, Japanese samurai swords. Kids will love the parts of the museum that deal with the two World Wars and include odd items such as explosives in the shape of rats and pieces of coal used by the Secret Service for sabotage operations. Other options are the Musée de la Poupée (Impasse Berthaud) with its doll collection and guided tours for children, and the Musée de la Curiosité et de la Magie (11 Rue Saint-Paul), which entrance the magician in everyone with its illusions and magic.
One of the world's most bizarre "museums" must be the Egouts de Paris (Pont de l'Alma, Place de la Résistance) – nothing more than the sewers of the city, which run for hundreds of kilometres in tunnels. The section you visit has labelled "streets" showing you just where you'd be if you were above ground; there's also a film and a small museum. You need to have a fairly strong stomach, but kids are just thrilled by the stench, and the visit is actually quite a fascinating glimpse into something in our daily lives we rarely pay attention to.
In a whirl of urban culture, kids will appreciate time out in the parks and gardens of the city.
The Jardin des Tuileries starts on the doorstep of the Louvre and has great views of Paris. It's a formal garden in the French style, complete with statues, fountains and clipped hedges, but the star attraction is the series of round ponds where local kids sail their model boats, which you can also rent. You can also have a donkey ride or watch the puppet shows. Even better puppet shows can be seen in the Jardin du Luxembourg and the Champs du Mars, which stretch around the Eiffel Tower.
On Sundays, Butte Montmartre comes to life as French families have picnics, listen to live bands, have their children's portraits sketched by street artists and enjoy the views. The northern section of the vast Bois de Boulogne hosts the Jardin d'Acclimatation, firmly on the family trail for its combination of kids' theatres, a small zoo, a puppet theatre, playgrounds and even a hall of mirrors. The park offers sports activities, babysitting and even an art museum for children. Lastly, the Parc Floral de Paris is a wonderful botanic garden with a butterfly garden that kids love. You can ride a mini-train or quadricycle around the park and enjoy children's shows at the theatre.
Circuses have always been popuar in France, and there are several in Paris that will delight kids of all ages. The Cirque de Paris (115 Boulevard Charles de Gaulle) is perhaps the best, since kids can attend workshops in the morning, have lunch with circus staff and then watch a show in he afternoon. Others include the Cirque Alexis Gruss (Allée de la Reine Marguerite) for horse shows and traditional circus acts, and Cirque d'Hiver Bouglione (110 Rue Amelot) for acrobats, jugglers, snake charmers and trapeze artists.
Around Paris
The biggest attraction for kids near Paris must be Disneyland Paris, situated in Marne-la-Vallée some 30 km out of the city. With 50 million visitors a year, this is France's number one tourist attraction, beating even the Eiffel Tower. It's better than the Disney parks in California or Hong Kong and probably second only to Disneyland in Florida, and you need at least a full day, and ideally two, for a visit.
Start off at Main Street U.S.A. with its old-fashioned American shops and horse-drawn carriages, then head on to Frontierland, where you'll find paddleboats, a petting zoo and a saloon with cancan-dancing showgirls. Adventureland reenacts the exploits of the Arabian Nights, Swiss Family Robinson and Caribbean pirates. You'll find the iconic Sleeping Beauty's Castle in Fantasyland, as well as the Mad Hatter's Tea Cups, Sir Lancelot's Magic Carousel and favourite figures such as Peter Pan, Dumbo and Snow White. Discoveryland is all about the future, from visions of Jules Vernes and H.G. Wells to Star Wars.
Staff are multi-lingual, so your kids shouldn't have any commuication problems. The park also has a dozen hotels, a golf course, a whole host of restaurants, shops, dance clubs and bars for adults. To get Disneyland Paris, take Line A of the RER (subway) to the last stop, Marne-la-Vallee/Chessy (45 mins), which is only a short walk from the entrance. Trains run every twenty minutes or so from 5:30am to midnight and tickets cost €12 return. Shuttle buses also connect Paris’ two airports to the park's hotels every half hour or so at a cost of €14 one-way or €12 for children 3-11yrs. The park is open 9:00am to 10:00pm daily in summer, 10:00am to 6:00pm weekdays and 9:00am to 8:00pm weekends in winter. Opening times sometimes change. Admission also changes slightly with the season but is approximately €39 for adults, €29 for children 3-12yrs for one day, €69/€49 for two days and €105/€78 for three days. Children under 3yrs enter free. See www.disneylandparis.com for more.
Disneyland isn't the only theme park near Paris. The Miniature Park of France (25 Route du Mesnil, Elancourt) is open from April to November and has 12 acres of France in miniature, with all its most famous landmarks represented. You can get there by taking RER C line to St-Quentin-en-Yvelines and then bus 420.
Safari Park of Thoiry (Thoiry-en-Yvelines; www.thoiry.tm.fr) is a terrific African reserve with free-roaming lions, elephants, monkeys and other animals in the grounds of a chateau. You can tour by little train or in your own car; it's open all year.
Parc Astérix (Plailly; www.parcasterix.com) is excellently presented and based around the Gaulish theme of France's famous cartoon strip. It's open from April to mid-October and can be reached by taking RER B line to Roissy Charles-de-Gaulle, followed by a bus. Water rides, dolphin and sealion shows, rides and other attractions will keep the kids busy all day.
If you don't have the time or energy to venture to far regions of France, there are numerous day trips in the surrounding Ile de France region surrounding Paris that will give you a taste. The Palace of Versailles is the most famous of these, although its baroque rooms and endless gardens will probably be more tiring than entertaining to most kids. The forests of Fontainebleau and Rambouillet are charming and surprisingly rural, and favorite destinations for cycling, horse-riding, walking and picnicking Parisians. If that isn’t enough, Fontainebleau’s gorges make it the place for rock climbing and it also has a vast royal palace.
There are dozens of chateaux around Paris, but another particularly worth visiting is at Vaux-le-Vicomte. The architecture here is truly stunning and during the summer you can tour the chateau in the evening, when it’s lit by candles to spectacular effect. Even better are the gardens, with their French formality, ornamental canals and dancing fountains. Chartres Cathedral, with its stunning stained glass and Gothic architecture, and Monet's former house at Giverny, are other popular destinations, though perhaps with limited appeal to children.
Events
France has numerous public holidays during which most businesses and many restaurants close. Apart from the Christmas and Easter periods, these include Victory in Europe Day (8th May), Bastille Day (14th July), All Saints' Day (1st Nov) and Armistice Day (11th Nov).
In Paris, there are festivals and events throughout the year, starting with a New Year's Day Parade (www.parisparade.com) through the streets with floats and dancing, followed by Chinese New Year around Avenue d'Ivry for Paris' large Chinese and Vietnamese community.
The end of February sees the opeing of the Salon de l'Agriculture at the exhibition centre in the Porte de Versailles; this is the world's biggest agricultural show and a must for kids interested in animals and farm life. The French Soccer Championship has its final at the Stade de France in May and is followed by the French Tennis Open at Roland Garros. The highlight of the French year is Bastille Day on 14th July. This is French national day and is marked by a military parade down the Champs-Élysées, followed by bands, fireworks and general celebrations.
From mid-July to mid-August, Paris has its own beach as tons of sand are spread along the banks of the Seine and transformed into beaches complete with palm trees. Winter can be just as fun with an ice-rink set up outside the town hall, which is free – although you do have to pay for skate rental. The Christmas illuminations and New Year's fireworks along the Champs-Élysées are also wonderful.
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